ten THINGS YOU HAVE TO KNOW ABOUT SETTING UP YOUR SUSPENSION



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(1) Dial it in. Calling in suspension can be extremely tricky, even
for experienced racers, for three factors. (a) Clicker modifications always
affect several areas of efficiency. (b) It is simple to misidentify
what’s causing a problem more than an obstacle. (c) A change that works properly
for one kind of obstacle may work poorly for another kind. These
is really a list of common mistakes when it comes to dialing in suspension. In case
you can prevent all the pitfalls, you’re on the fast track into a great
set up.

(2) Don’t quit.


Calling in your suspension is really a couple of
trial and error. It is time-consuming. Should you be not happy together with your
modifications, don’t quit. Go back to stock amounts and try again.
Continually paying attention to what your suspension does and
running after better settings are going to pay off over time. It will not only
lead to better suspension configurations, but it will result in analyzing how
you are getting close to obstacles and refining your own riding techniques.

(3) Move huge.


If you make a change and can’t have the difference,
it’s a waste of time. One click is difficult to feel, even for
skilled testers. Make a change that is big enough to feel. Keep in mind
that you find out just as much simply by going in the wrong direction as moving in
the best direction. When you are within the ball park, zero in with smaller
clicker increments.

(4) Seesaw impact.


Poor fork settings hurt surprise performance and the other way round. If the forks are too stiff, for instance , they will transfer an excessive amount of force from a bump in to the shock rather than absorbing it. In this condition, the actual rider often feels the shock can’t handle the load and stiffens up the back to balance the bike out. The truth is, softening the actual forks would have fixed the issue and achieved a plusher set up.

(5) High-speed vs . reduced speed.


A corner shock has an outer dial for adjusting compression during high-speed shock-shaft movements and an inner clicker for low shaft speeds. Riders assume that high-speed shock actions occur when they flat-land from a big jump. The fact is, jump faces, landings, medium-sized bumps and rollers are low-speed shock movement. It’s the smaller stutter bumps that really get the surprise moving quickly. Use the outer dial to modify the ride elevation of the rear while in motion in all those high-speed shock-shaft travel circumstances.

(6) Hard or smooth?


Individuals regularly “Ask the actual MXperts” why their suspension continues to feel therefore harsh when they have turned out the data compresion clickers or even visited softer suspension systems. The solution ? Suspension system gets firm because it travels down into its stroke. Overly soft suspension bypasses the first portion of the stroke and rides in the company part. Suspension that is too soft will feel too stiff. Try to be aware of what portion of the stroke the actual suspension is within. The fork-travel gauge is an easy elastic band that goes throughout the fork pipe; it’s rather a great tool in this undertaking.

(7) Free-sag misunderstandings.


The best way to determine if a bike has got the correct shock spring is with free model, which is taken without the rider about the bike after competition sag is placed. The misunderstandings comes when interpreting the actual numbers. If your bike has very little free sag after setting the proper competition sag, then the spring is simply too soft—and needed to be cranked straight down with a lots of preload. The firmer spring can certainly be softer initially because it will require less preload. Proper free-sag amounts vary based on the bike, but most enthusiasts recommend free-sag numbers from 30mm in order to 40mm.

(8) Kicking.


Nothing is worse than the usual rear end which kicks in the bumps. The natural tendency is to slow down the rebound from the shock to combat the kick, but that isn’t always the best solution. If the shock is blowing through its travel as it doesn’t have enough compression, it can kick. If this packs as it has an excessive amount of compression, it can kick. If this has an excessive amount of rebound, it can refuse to return to full length on time for the next bump and kick. And also, logically, if it doesn’t have enough rebound, it can kick. As a rule of thumb, try more data compresion before more rebound.

(9) Rebound.


Rebound clickers, especially about the forks, can be well hidden, from mind for a lot of riders as it change to understand when to change them. Suspension must be active enough to follow all the contours from the ground, however, not so active which it’s busy or nervous. If the suspension isn’t rebounding fast enough, it loses traveling with each consecutive bundle and “packs. ” To know if you should adjust rebound, pay attention to the mindset of the bike and suspension performance over a series of bumps.

(10) Beat stock.


After having a day of testing and dialing inside your suspension, write down your settings and go back to the actual stock settings for the back-to-back comparison of the overall modifications. This could be discouraging, because you may discover that you lost a whole time. It’s simple to start chasing your own tail and go too much when testing suspension. It’s human nature to think that when two clicks are excellent, 10 mouse clicks must be great. Realizing the stock settings are better does not mean your changes weren’t valid; you probably just got overly enthusiastic. Try again with more modest modifications.


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